The Norther

When living at sea it is necessary to be very tuned into the weather and sea conditions, and having access to weather forecasts is very handy in planning. It is funny how quickly one gets used to (addicted even), being able to access a weather apps on the phone at any time. Our last voyage was comparatively a technological dark ages--not to mention that sailors traversed the high seas for hundreds of years with no technology! Since Baja is so sparsely populated, access to wi-fi or cell signal is much more rare, thereby cutting off our access to weather information unless we run into someone with more recent access to a signal or satellite technology to question. So, after enjoying several days at anchor in Los Gatos, we pulled up anchor to head north to Puerto Escondido (our final fuel stop before crossing back over the Sea to the mainland). Having had no access to weather information for quite a while, we continued north for about 2 miles before we realized that the wind and seas were continuing to build and didn't appear that they were going to settle down. With an increasingly uncomfortable ride with our engine RPM's at 2200 making a speed of about 1 knot per hour, we decided to turn around and head back to the protection of our anchorage in Los Gatos. It was a true "norther" that we have heard so much about in the Sea of Cortez. It was so windy that we couldn't even row to shore--we were stuck on the boat for several days. Then stayed a few more days to allow the seas to calm down after the wind died down. The extra time at Los Gatos allowed us more time for hiking on shore and the opportunity to visit with an amazing couple (also stuck in Los Gatos during the norther), who were sea kayaking the Baja coast. The people you meet at anchor or on shore is one of the great pleasures of traveling. We have met people from all over and all walks of life, many with whom we share a common spirit of life and adventure and many who have done some amazing and interesting things. After filling up on fuel and water in Puerto Escondido, we left for Isla Carmen and enjoyed Ballandra, then headed back to the peninsula side at San Juanico where we waited out another norther. We decided this would be where we would take off from to make our crossing back to the mainland. We are having a great time, and while we are anxious to get back to our cabin, we feel some sadness in knowing that this season is coming to an end.

Los Gatos

Isla Carmen

San Juanico